Sand rail drivetrain

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Kennedy Honda Engine Adapters. Kennedy Subaru Engine Adapters. VW Engine Adapter. SinceKennedy has manufactured some of the highest quality automotive parts for engines and transmissions. Our inventory features a range of options for high-quality Kennedy engine adapters at an affordable price.

We carry options designed to be compatible with Honda, Chevy, Ecotec, Subaru, and more. Whether looking to repair your worn down adapters or swap out engines, our selection of Kennedy adapters has you covered. Our selection features a range of clutch specifications as well to ensure you get the performance and power you are looking for without overloading your system.

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With a range of options available, you are sure to find the right solution for your vehicle. We offer inclusive kits, including flywheel and hardware, for a complete overhaul that is easy to complete. We also sell individual flywheels for a variety of engine types, as well as individual dust plates in different specifications.

When choosing engine adapters, you want to make sure you are getting the right gear and hardware to effectively transform your engine for a vehicle capable of optimal performance. You should first consider the specs of the engine you are transplanting to make sure the two engine areas are compatible.

For instance, you would not want to transfer an engine that is too large for the space. Size is not the only matter to keep in mind.

sand rail drivetrain

Any car or dune buggy owner knows not all engines are created the same. You want to be mindful of the way the engine and transmission will act and react with one another to make sure you find the right option for your vehicle and desired level of power.MEGALODON is our top of the line, extreme, one seat, high horsepower motorcycle engine powered off road race vehicle that you can build yourself at home. You can literally build your own race car at home! MEGALODON Race Vehicle Fabrication Plans includes pages of highly detailed measured drawings of all of the fabrication, machining and tube bending information you will need to mechanically and structurally construct an entire race vehicle from scratch at home.

This is a huge time and money saver for you. You save money because the CNC laser cutting shop does not have to create the CAD files, we have already done it for you. Many CNC laser cut parts are designed with self-jigging tabs and slots meaning a jig is not needed in many cases. The drive system is a chain drive to a reverse gear box with Porsche CV joints, chromoly splined axles, Race Trim billet aluminum wheel hubs and Wilwood disc brakes.

The Economy Version uses Fox 2. The Pro Version uses Radflo coil-over shocks and billet aluminum suspension a-arms. The system also uses Race Trim billet aluminum wheel hubs with Wilwood disc brakes.

sand rail drivetrain

The main housing is designed to be laser cut with self-jigging tabs and slots. Overall vehicle will weigh approximately lbs with a cc engine installed Pro Version. Chassis drawings show you how to start by making a square tube base frame then progressively build upon that starting point. All materials are readily available worldwide. After you complete your purchase through our website check out, an automatic download now link will pop up. Click on it to download your digital file.

We do not mail paper copies. You are purchasing a digital file. You must be logged in to post a review. Build this top of the line buggy at home!

Reviews There are no reviews yet.By Justin S Date Has anyone ever seen a buggy with a front wheel drive engine and transmission transplanted to the back?

I was wondering if it would be possible to back halve a shortened beetle chassis to accomplish this? I have been googling, but haven't come up with anything yet. I'm thinking automatic, fuel injected, lightweight v6.

Could keep necessary wiring harnesses from donor, but I cant picture it fitting I also thought custom chassis, but I think it would be easier to just build off the back than start from scratch.

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I knew if anyone could scrounge up pictures it would be here. Thanks for input in advance. By Brad H Date One thing I've learned from building cars over the years. Start with the back half subframe for your drive train and build a chassis to fit it and the body.

A buddy of mine is doing a turbo Honda FWD transplant. I haven't seen it, but the guy helping is a mechanical genious, so great things are expected. Don't expect to keep a lot of the fiberglass body in the rear of the car, I imagine you'll lose just about everything inside the tub at the back. Just asking, but why a V6 swap? The car will be horribly unbalanced and for a lot less work you could drop in a turbo Subi motor or build a killer flat 4 VW.

Even a "light weight" V6 and auto tranni will be about lbs heavier than what you are starting with and unless you are planning to mod it to the 9's, won't give you much more power than what you can bolt onto a VW tranni. Don't want to discourage you from your project, but if your going for horsepower there is a lot easier ways to go about it. Thanks for the post back. I really appreciate your advice.

I too had thought of just building a frame starting with the whole front cradle. The weight of the transmission I have not investigated yet. I know the engine itself is only approx lbs heavier than the corvair that the ghetto square inch tube chassis had on it.

I have also considered just bolting the engine to a VW transmission, but the engine is rated at hp and ft lbs of torque. Now I know places like Rancho can build a vw tranny to handle, but the cost is my concern.

That is what sparked the interest in using the factory fwd transmission. I for sure want to use the engine, but am somewhat nervous about the transmission. In the same breath, I am nervous about all of the fabrication to build the chassis necessary to use the FWD transmission, but don't want to pay an outrageous amount of money for a transmission that could be replaced with the factory FWD one.

Any ideas on the cost of a vw transmission capable of that? Strictly street use. Or you know if you have the skills to build it, shoot me a cost estimate. By Jeffrey P Date Login or Sign Up. Logging in Remember me. Log in.

sand rail drivetrain

Forgot password or user name? Mid-Engine Sandrail Project. Posts Latest Activity. Page of 4. Filtered by:. Previous 1 2 3 4 template Next. Well after about 15 years of wanting to build a sandrail I finally pulled the trigger and commenced my build. I am making the chassis wide enough to be comfortable whereas the original was built for a very small individual and was not even comfortable it I were to have just repaired the damage.

I was going to widen the bench seat that was in the car when I widened the chassis, however, after meeting a gentleman at the dunes a couple of weeks ago and sitting in his car with suspension seats that totally changed my mind.

Suspension style seats looked like the way to go. I have built several street rods and muscle cars as well as a few custom ATV chassis and felt as though I was ready to tackle a larger all tube chassis.

This is my first sandrail chassis and hopefully there will be more to follow. I am really enjoying this build, more so than many of my projects as of the last few years. Thanks for looking, Mike. This picture is of the majority of the original car cut away and the new chassis coming together while sitting on the frame table that I had just built.

This picture is of one of the joints where I joined the new tubing to the original. As per NHRA specs the tube must be at least one and one half the diameter of the tube in either direction of the seam.

Must have rosette welds on either side of the seam approx. This is a view of the rear with the new outer upper and lower main rails bent, fishmouthed and tacked into place. This is a picture of one of the welds on the rear crossbar.

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Last edited by zmotorsports ;AM. Tags: None. This picture is of the suspension seats that finally showed up. This is a picture of the some of the seat tabs. All of the little tabs are what takes time. The large tube bending, fishmouthing and tacking makes it look like I am really kicking butt, however, when I start fabricating the little tabs I feel as though I am going in slow motion.

To fabricate these four brackets it took about minutes, which may not seem like a long time but there will be a lot of small brackets and tabs on this car. This is also what makes or breaks the entire project. These little brackets get overlooked when done properly but jump out and look like a sore thumb if done half-assed. This is a picture of one of the welds for the fuel tank mounting bracket.

sand rail drivetrain

This is a picture of the rear upper crossbar that resides just behind the seats. Comment Post Cancel.

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This is a picture of the 'B' pillar bent, fishmouthed and tacked into position.Some even have AWD, although these tend to be more expensive because many of the transmission components are custom built. My idea is to take the entire engine and drivetrain out of an AWD car such as an Audi or Subaru, turn it around backwards, and build the tube-frame chassis around it, with the engine in the back and the donor car's rear differential at the front. Putting the engine in the back allows for the right weight distribution, allowing the car to essentially "float" over loose sand.

In order to make the car go in the right direction, you would need to either modify the differentials so they spin the wheels opposite to normal, or somehow get the engine to spin backwards. The gear linkages might be a little tricky too.

This scheme is intended for cars with longitudinally mounted engines, but it might also work with transversely mounted engines too. The weight distribution and torque steer might not be as good, though. Are those like doobies? I think you need to be in a van down by the river to do that. Sandrails are custom-built off-road vehicles based on the design of the VW Bug, with the engine in the back.

Backwards AWD Sandrail. Cheap and Dirty Four-Wheel Drive. Fluid Coupling Four Wheel Drive. Now I know why its called the halfbakery.Rail buggies or dune buggies are a long-standing favorite toy of desert goers. Used to drive over dunes, rough or muddy terrain and rocky landscapes, rail buggies are light and fast stripped down versions of cars that consist of nothing more than the frame, tires, engine, steering wheel and a couple of seats.

Cheap to operate and maintain, rail buggies consist of 2 different configurations: mid engine and front engine buggies. Mid engine buggies are by far the more popular configuration with the engine mounted behind the driver and connected directly to the rear axle. This configuration adds overall buggy clearance, increases horsepower, and it is a bit safer than a front engine buggy.

Front engine buggies have their engines mounted in front of the driver like a normal car setup with a driveshaft connecting the engine to the rear axle. Front engine buggies are easier to build in some ways than their rear engine counterparts and offer the added bonus of a better center of gravity.

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Less traction can be had due to less weight being on the rear wheels, but this is a minor setback compared to the ease of construction.

This article will teach you how to build your own front engine rail buggy from any old front engine car you have available. Begin by purchasing or locating an old but able to run! This will serve as the base for your buggy. Remove all of the glass from the car by sliding a razorblade knife along the perimeter of the windows and windshield and lifting the glass free from its moldings.

Next remove all of the doors and body panels. The body panels are simply sheet metal attached with bolts, so search along the edge of each panel and use the ratchet set to remove each panel. Remove the trunk lid and the hood as well. When you have removed all of the sheet metal from the car, you should be left with a frame and the internal workings of the car.

Pull the carpet and plastics out of the inside of the car. Leave nothing but the seats in place. It should be possible to remove all of the interior of the car with the razor blade and a bit of elbow grease.

If there are back seats, use the ratchet set to unbolt them from the frame and remove them. You now should have what constitutes the "buggy" with the front engine design. Remove the street tires that were mounted to the old car and mount the rough or "mud" tires.

Various other modifications can be made to improve the performance, suspension and safety of this design, but this is your basic stripped down rail buggy ready for some fun on the trails.

Step 1 Begin by purchasing or locating an old but able to run! Step 2 Next remove all of the doors and body panels.

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Step 3 Remove the trunk lid and the hood as well. Step 4 Pull the carpet and plastics out of the inside of the car.All rights reserved. All images protected by US and International copyright laws. No part of this website may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means. All Prices subject to change without notice or obligation. Not responsible for typographical or photo errors. Getting all that power to the ground is your transmission and axles.

Off road terrain puts a strain on your dune buggy drivetrain so make sure it is a tough as possible. We offer a full line of CV joints, boots, stub axles, drive flanges, chromoly race axles and Moly grease to pack the CV Joints so they will last. We carry the most common VW based clutch discs, pressure plates and throw out bearings to keep your Baja Bug on or off road. If you are transplanting a Type 2 Bus transmission into your Type 1 chassis, we have conversion transmission mounts along with stock mounts for your transmission.

We offer transmission side covers, mounting bolts, clutch cable tube brackets and arms and just about anything else you will need for the transmission and drivetrain in your dune buggy.

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